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davidpulvermacherTeilnehmer
Hi Hendrik
I’m in Cape Town. I can steer you in the right direction, as I’ve made a 360 for GoPro recently.
Give me a buzz.
0724126030davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerGeorg
Your piece about the joys of building a flying machine versus buying a Dji Mavic or similar, is really heart felt.Even though I have been in this hobby for a relatively short time, about four years, the technology has progressed recently at an exponential rate.
We have seen the cost reduce, and the sophistication of these craft increase to the extent that one wishes one had invested in the hobby latterly, rather than before…However the joy and frustration of having been through the loop of trying to understand the tech, even in a superficial way, makes up for the lag behind the cutting edge, in the form of Dji and others.
It’s impossible to keep up.
In that spirit is has been a real privelege to have been part of it, especially in this forum and that of OlliW and the StorM32 gimbal, irrespective of how little I know about code and electronics in general.
My respect for you guys is immence.
All the best for the future.
Best DPdavidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Benny
Here’s the link to a Youtube clip showing the setup error on my STorM32 gimbal.
Best
DP.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Benny
I’m running the Storm32 V1.3 board flashed with NT217e and an Atom 3CCD Imu.
The gimbal seems to work fine except for the fact that it doesn’t start in a consistant forward yaw position.
It seems that this is caused by the failure in the last stage of the configuration to set the yaw position and then save eeprom to the board.
I get a fail every time. Very odd.I will try powering the board with a full 12v to see whether it makes a difference.
Video to follow.
Best DP.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Benny and all..
I’m still having problems getting the STorM32 board set up so that it works consistently.
Having just flashed 2.20 firmware I see that all the stock PIDs for ‚D’are set at 4, but the motor power settings are quite a bit lower than I have been using (150)..Seems to be more stable.What voltage is commonly used to power the board using the gimbal motors that you recommend? Maybe my voltage is set too low?? (±10V)
Best.
Dave P.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerSorry should have looked on the forum….
Found the PIDs.Thanks.
Best DPdavidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Everybody.
I have finally rebuilt my quad after a bad crash, which destroyed the roll arm. So I had the parts 3D printed and glued them together with Loctite 401. Seems to be fine, if expensive.I now find that after about ten minutes the gimble has an attack almost like epilepsy, rolling around uncontrollably, mainly in the roll axis. Otherwise it behaves very well indeed. (RCtimer yaw motor, Walkera pitch and roll motors)
I suspect it might be that I had the motor power setting dialed up too high.
I have now set them all to 150.
Could somebody post their PID setting for reference please?
Would be much appreciated.By the way I have the power from a 3S/4S regulated so that it is a maximum of just over 10V.
Best DP.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Benny and George
It looks as though the Globe Flyer has matured into a very neat little quad!
I was interested to see that Dji is about market their ‚Mavic‘ quad, which looks remarkably like the GlobeFlyer….. They must have been watching.Anyway nice work. Congratulations.
Best DP.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Everybody
Having at last repaired my gimbal (bad pitch motor) and run the STorM NT32 setup, I have finally got the thing to work …sort of. I couldn’t get the last stage of the setup to finish. (setting the yaw angle)
The only thing that worries me is that the yaw motor (RcTimer) seems to be a bit ’notchy‘ when one turns the gimbal.
Has anyone else had a similar issue, or is this normal? Maybe my PIDs are out?
Best DP.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi All
Having just had to replace the faulty pitch motor on my EI 360, and in so doing rather damaged the arm, I thought it might be sensible to glue a 10mm ID aluminium sleeve into the arm rather than gluing the motor bush itself.
The motor can then be fixed using two grub screws or cap screws, top and bottom, enabling easy removal of the arm motor without damaging the arm. See the attached.
Best.DPAttachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHi Benny
I put my gimbal kit together, wired it all up and….Bugger! the tilt motor is faulty! Wiring broken.
So I had to get the thing out having glued it in with Epoxy, and have damaged the arm.
I have asked somebody here to 3D print the parts, but if necessary can you supply the sheet with the arm parts only?
Otherwise it went together brilliantly.
Maybe it’s better to glue an aluminium collar in first with a grub screw in it to secure the motors.
Then one can get the motor out without damaging the plywood parts?
Best. Happy Easter. DPAttachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerSorry….
I have just re-read the assemble instructions…
Is the 2K epoxy still the adhesive of choice?I worry in case changes have to be made.
Best DP.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerThat looks great!
Are you using GRP for the plates or is that Carbon fibre?
I’m still very tempted to get one of these GlobeFlyers……By the way Georg and Benny, I had some parts cut from PCB material as I cannot get your high quality ply here. And carbon is way too expensive.
Interesting that the PCB top plate weighs 11 grams whereas your ply plate only weighs 7!!Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerHere’s another try, saved smaller….
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.davidpulvermacherTeilnehmerSeems like the zip file didn’t upload…
I wonder why 4.7 Mb? -
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